Doris Chou-Durfee

Known for her innovations with metal and beadwork, metalsmith Doris Chou-Durfee incorporates inspirational motifs and symbols into each design. This is rooted in her belief that jewelry has a beneficial effect beyond the visible: just as people have assigned protective qualities to amulets for centuries, AMULET by D jewelry is meant to bring strength and optimism to its wearers.

Currently based in Washington DC, Doris handcrafts each piece and maintains a low toxicity studio while using recycled metals and minimizing waste. Previously, Doris worked in Hong Kong and Beijing for ten years, where she received a graduate certificate in jewelry design at the Central Academy of Fine Arts (CAFA 中央美術學院)in Beijing, China in 2015. Doris has also studied traditional metalsmithing at Jewelry Arts in New York since 2013.

AMULET by D designs have been featured at New York Fashion Week and NYC Jewelry Week, and have appeared in publications such as Harpers Bazaar Jewelry, Time Out, InStore, Schon


Moltrès Shield ring: Lava

Date of Creation: September 1, 2022

List of Materials: 14k gold, sterling silver, fine silver, Australian opal

Dimensions: 0.85 inch height x 0.75 inch length x 0.25 inch thick with 0.13 thick band

Photographer's Name: Lenore Pomerance (self portrait of hand, released to Doris Chou-Durfee); Lava background is from Shutterstock royalty-free

Model's Name: Lenore Pomerance

Other Contributors: Doris Chou-Durfee (photoshop collage and metalsmith)

Conceptual Statement: The inspiration behind my Moltrès collection, of which the Shield ring is a key piece, is idea of starting anew. I used scrap silver and gold from my workshop and melted it with a torch, while thinking about Michaelangelo's sentiment of creating sculptures by observing the shapes waiting to emerge from slabs of marble, rather than him actively shaping it with his tools. When creating the Moltrès collection, I used my torch to coax these scraps into revealing organic shapes of their own. Coupled with the idea of fire and the phoenix, as a symbol of rebirth, this collection is meant to represent trial by fire and emerging stronger than before. Lenore is a long time loyal supporter of my art, and when she sent me a photo of her wearing her new favorite ring, I assembled this collage -- an image of her adorned hand, dipping into a pool of lava, and emerging unscathed.


Moltrès Shield ring: Fungi

Date of Creation: 01/09/2022

List of Materials: 14k gold, sterling silver, fine silver, Australian opal

Dimensions: 0.85 inch height x 0.75 inch width x 0.25 inch thick and 0.13 inch thick band

Photographer's Name: Doris Chou-Durfee

Other Contributors: Doris Chou-Durfee photo collage

Conceptual Statement: This is a very different photo than Moltrès Shield Ring: Lava visually, but uses the same ring, which I constructed by melting scraps of gold and silver I had lying around my workshop. In this picture, I wanted to echo the natural curves and the smooth metal texture that was a result of a "natural" melting of the materials by juxtaposition against these mushrooms (which resemble fingers growing towards the light). I really love the idea of something dark and growing beneath the surface, glowing and waiting to emerge, and mushrooms (who thrive in the moist dark) seemed a fitting counterpoint visually and metaphorically.


Vanilla with a Twist

Date of Creation: 21/02/2023

List of Materials: Pearl, tourmaline, aquamarine, labradorite, amethyst, sterling silver

Dimensions: 2.85 inches long x 0.75 inches at widest point

Photographer's Name: Doris Chou-Durfee

Other Contributors: Ice cream cone image from Shutterstock royalty-free images Photo collage by Doris Chou-Durfee

Conceptual Statement: I wanted to make a modern variation on the classic pearl earring and put together this chandelier-meets pearl-meets shoulder duster design. I thought it would be a bit tongue-in-cheek to drape these on a vanilla ice cream cone - a true classic for good reason - as "sprinkles" adorning the dessert. Not just your mother's pearls, or your father's ice cream -- something borrowed from the traditional but much more fun.

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