Crete Rings

Nancy Troske

anthology2022-6granulationrings

Nancy Troske Jewelry LLC
Princeton, NJ, United States
2022

12 x 14 mm

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Photo credit: Cole Image

An ancient Crete inspired collection of colorful gemstone cabochon rings combined with 22 karat gold granulation and colored diamonds. Each ring has a unique granulated accent with a tiny matching or contrasting colored diamond. Granulation is a highly specialized decorative technique, seen in the work of early Etruscan, Roman and Greek goldsmiths and revived in the 20th century. Tiny granules are hand made in a special alloy of 22 karat gold and fused with a torch to a gold back sheet. The technique leaves no room for error; too much heat melts the piece, too little heat and the granules won’t adhere to the design. It takes years of practice and expertise to perfect. If done well, a piece can last through the centuries, evidenced by pieces seen in museums today.

Bio
Nancy Troske is trained in classical jewelry-making techniques such as enameling, granulation, and chain making. She takes her inspiration from ancient designs and imbues her pieces with a modern sensibility. Her process of stone selection, metal work, and hand granulation respects the origins of this craft, which began in the third millennium B.C.

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